Tuesday, February 14, 2012

2) Tundra Ski

For my first month in Tututuliak, it was so bitter cold (-30s F) and windy, that I didn't ski at all.  I did manage a daily trudge up and down the Kinak River and sometimes through the village. Getting ready to go outside was an ordeal, requiring a full snow suit, two face masks, ski goggles, hat, hood, insulated boots and serious mittens.  Despite the preparation, the wind was still able to find its way through the tiniest openings in my clothing.  Everyone here has some frost-bitten flesh on their face. The locals call them Eskimo hickeys.  

The weather broke and warmed to just below freezing about ten days ago and I've skate skied every day since.  For a class assignment, I had my students draw maps of the community and from that information, was able to find the snowgo trail to Bethel.  I have no delusions about skiing the 50+ miles to get there, but the trail is varied and packed down by the snowmachine traffic, however sparse that .  It makes a good out and back workout.  The fact of skiing on the tundra is that there is always wind.  It's going to hammer you either coming or going

I did ski a bit this weekend, maybe 6 miles on Friday, 4 on Saturday, and then 10 on Sunday.  The winds were too much Saturday and I went out right into the brunt of it.  The turn around was great though.  I skied like I was Kikki Randal on my return - just as fast as one can possibly go with boards strapped on your feet!  

Sunday's ski was like no other.  The light was flat and there was absolutely no definition in the snow.  I could discern the trail about a foot beyond my ski tips, but no further. The white gray of the trail became the gray white of the sky, especially as I crossed the flatness of the lakes and sloughs where there was no vegetation to provide any depth to vision.  It was like skiing into nothingness and mostly exciting for the mystery. 

Maybe that's a metaphor for where my life is at.

I almost didn't ski after work today as I had to shop and do laundry and had a small window of opportunity open for that.  Skiing couldn't be denied however and I'm glad I convinced myself to head out for a bit.  I was able to get a significant ski on the river for the first time since the bitter cold left.  There's been too much wet overflow along the banks as the tides rises and seeps though the cracks and pressure ridges. Today there was at least an icy approach to the main channel.  I went up river about 4 miles before turning around.  It had been foggy all day and as the sun set, the low mist thickened into the darkness.  No worries however, as it's impossible to get lost on the river.

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